I’ve realized that my wardrobe has not modified a lot within the final 20 years. I’m very completely happy being an grownup and don’t need to costume like a young person, however as the principles across the male costume code disappear, it’s laborious to know find out how to replace and enhance my wardrobe. Are you able to please supply some recommendation? — Paul, Pittsburgh
Since there may be nothing like going straight to the supply for a solution, and since Man Trebay, our males’s put on critic, is presently on the entrance strains (or entrance row) of this problem on the males’s put on reveals, I requested him how he would translate the most recent designer developments for the on a regular basis male wardrobe. Right here’s the intel he despatched again from the theater of operations:
“A distinctly positive takeaway of the recent edition of Pitti Uomo, the big men’s wear fair in Florence, and of the shows in Milan and those still underway in Paris, is how flexible the options are for guys of every age.
The broken suit — or jacket worn with one of a variety of trouser options — is now universally favored among designers. (We’re talking conservative designers, not those proposing fur pants or zippered flap-front leather shorts.) A good formula seems to be to wear one tailored article of clothing as an anchor and then please yourself. That could mean a blazer or chore jacket or even an untucked shirt with squared off tails (think guayabera) over trousers. These exist at every level of price, from Brioni to Uniqlo.
As for the pants, despite Jerry Seinfeld’s insistence that nobody over 30 has any business wearing jeans, they are still my go-to. The choices are many, although a straight leg and dark indigo selvage denim is a classic (no jeggings, saggers or wackadoodle washes, please). Personally, I like the Los Angeles label Hiroshi Kato. Yes, they’re pricey, but they wear like iron and go right in the wash. (Cold only, please, hang dry.)
If you are more comfortable in side-pocket trousers or the fuller workman pants favored by young designers like Evan Kinori, there are excellent options available from Todd Snyder as well as the labels Faherty, Officine Générale and even a newly rejiggered Gap.
Forget the tie, but wear them with a decent jacket, a pressed Oxford or even a crisp T-shirt and a good pair of shoes — which, believe it or not, are making a comeback. While I myself wear loafers almost exclusively, there is also a lot to be said for a pair of closed-toe Birkenstocks.
You should feel comfortably well-dressed for most any occasion other than your wedding or day in court, though if you want a real break from personal tradition, take inspiration from one of the best shows I’ve seen in years, and wear Issey Miyake head-to-toe.”
Your Fashion Questions, Answered
Each week on Open Thread, Vanessa will reply a reader’s fashion-related query, which you’ll be able to ship to her anytime through email or Twitter. Questions are edited and condensed.