A Perfect Weekend in Asbury Park, N.J.


To name Asbury Park a secret would betray its tumultuous and storied historical past: A wellspring of American music, tucked round the swamps of Jersey. A house to nationwide icons. A vibrant L.G.B.T.Q. neighborhood. A metropolis that bears the scars of the civil rights motion, blighted for many years by mismanagement and distrust, that’s now within the midst of a hovering restoration fueled by the very soul that gave Asbury its purpose for being: music.

Now Asbury Park is known as “the Coolest Small Town in America” by travel magazines and is frequently positioned on “top beach destinations” lists.

But simply an hourlong drive from Manhattan with out site visitors, Asbury Park nonetheless appears like a discovery, a New Orleans-meets-Dogtown metropolis by the ocean that’s ignored by the bumper-to-bumper site visitors of the Lengthy Island Expressway out to the Hamptons, the overcrowded ferries shuttling day-trippers to Rockaway Seashore or the snarled causeway lined with vehicles to Lengthy Seashore Island.

Ignored, after all, at their very own loss. As a result of as I’ve realized since my first journey to Asbury 25 years in the past, to catch the Warped Tour with my dad within the lot behind the storied Stone Pony, Asbury Park gives a Jersey Shore idyll for all comers: the rockers, diners, surfers, artwork patrons and simply followers of a easy stress-free day on the seashore. I’ve been maintaining a rotating and up to date record of recommendations for family and friends for years now to assist them have the proper summer season weekend. Now I’ll share it with Instances readers, too.

You’re right here for the seashore, so let’s begin with that. Most essential: That is the Jersey Shore, house to paid seashore entry and draconian parking rules. Asbury Park, fortuitously, has ample parking close to the seashore, and imposes no time restrict on metered parking, although it’ll run you $3 an hour from 8 a.m. to 2 a.m. with no reductions on a full day charge. Then an all-day seashore cross prices $6 per individual on weekdays, and climbs to $9 on the weekend.

OK, time to choose a jetty. Surfers, head north, as the one summertime surf seashore throughout lifeguard hours is off Eighth Avenue and Deal Lake Drive (after all, no restrictions on daybreak patrol or sundown periods). Non-surfers desirous to shred can guide classes on the surf seashore via Summertime Surf. For the equally lively however terra firma crowd, make for the seashores close to Sixth Avenue and search for the volleyball nets to hitch a pickup recreation or host your individual.

The northern seashores are additionally house to the “dog beach,” a necessity in a metropolis the place bars construct pet playgrounds, host dog-friendly “Yappy Hours” and the Mardi Gras parade facilities on costumed pooches; it’s not unusual to see canines in get together hats trotting alongside the boardwalk following a birthday shindig. So, within the early mornings and each night time after 6:30 p.m., the seashore close to Deal Lake is open to canines (and their house owners).

For these simply trying to sit on the seashore and chill out, choose up a seashore learn at the Asbury Book Cooperative, a novel and regionally owned bookstore that operates as a co-op, with members given voting energy over choices and reductions on new books.

The Asbury Park boardwalk, storied as it might be via its appearances in Springsteen songs and Sopranos scenes, just isn’t the sort of amusement park-on-the-water that many different Shore cities declare; extra eating places and bars line the planks right here. However there’s nonetheless some conventional seashore enjoyable, together with the Asbury Splash Park, the place sprinklers, hoses and different water-emitting units line the lot for kids. And the Silverball Pinball Museum, an arcade that doubles as a museum of historic pinball machines relationship again to the Fifties, gives a possibility to hitch the wizards down on Pinball Approach.

Each September, Asbury Park is the positioning of SeaHearNow, a nationally recognized, two-day festival, however on any given weekend, it will possibly really feel like its personal music pageant, as anyplace from a brewery to a bookstore to a espresso store to a lodge foyer generally performs host to reside music.

Begin off within the afternoon at the Transparent Clinch Gallery, the place native artists play on an intimate stage beneath the gaze of numerous music legends photographed by the famend photographer Danny Clinch. A Jersey Shore native, Mr. Clinch has photographed Bruce Springsteen, the Foo Fighters, Tupac and extra, and his gallery on the jap finish of the Asbury Lodge is full of portraits of iconic artists, together with a (almost) life-size Mr. Springsteen leaning in opposition to a muscle automotive that guests can pose with for an image. Mr. Clinch will typically be a part of the bands onstage together with his harmonica, holding down a current blues duet with the native Seaside band Johnny Anonymous.

From there, stroll downtown to the House of Independents, a big sunken venue that may pack 500 followers in for a Jersey punk showcase, a extra reflective, indie marquee night time or just put a D.J. onstage and have a dance get together. Shut the night time by heading a pair blocks all the way down to the Saint, a venue that feels unchanged because it opened its doorways in 1994, for a mixture of native artists and nationally touring bands, which can be packed right into a sliver of an area that would simply double as a punky dive bar.

The second day of our self-styled pageant kicks off with brunch at R Bar, a brand new standout New Orleans-themed restaurant on Principal Road that hosts a brass brunch on Saturday and a blues brunch on Sunday within the yard backyard. Seize a Kane Head Excessive on draft and a few blue crab beignets and settle in for an ideal Jersey-meets-New-Orleans combo.

The primary occasion is down Second Avenue, the place the siren track from the legendary Stone Pony continues to be echoing down the boardwalk, 48 years since it first opened its doors, and Mr. Springsteen still shows up on occasion. The venue’s Summer season Stage, housed within the again lot, hosts main nationwide acts from Phil Lesh to Jason Isbell to the Bouncing Souls, whereas the aftershow could be contained in the Pony, the place native bands grace the identical stage that Mr. Springsteen, Stevie Van Zandt and Southside Johnny frequently referred to as house.

In case your ears aren’t ringing but, head again on the boardwalk at the Asbury Park Yacht Club, which regularly has late night time live shows going previous midnight on the weekends, and sweaty dancers spilling out into the salt air.

Asbury’s many music venues could solely be eclipsed by the booming restaurant scene. There’s lots to eat, so let’s begin early.

That is New Jersey, in spite of everything, so for breakfast, you’re going to eat that greasy, salty chopped pork shoulder product: Taylor Ham (or, as they name it in Asbury, Pork Roll). It’s obtainable everywhere in the metropolis, however for the most effective expertise, head to the Johnny Pork Roll truck within the North Eats Meals Truck park and get the Sandwich, a conventional pork roll, egg and cheese with “saltpepperketchup,” a condiment accompaniment that have to be uttered in a single breath.

If experimenting with the state’s most treasured and peculiar delicacies just isn’t within the playing cards, head to Cardinal Provisions for a mixture of conventional brunch requirements and unique takes, just like the cacio e pepe eggs.

You’ll need to stroll off that breakfast, so stroll downtown towards Frank’s Deli and Restaurant for a traditional, multi-page laminated menu and formica-topped cubicles. There’s nothing unhealthy on this menu, however you’re right here for jaw-locking Italian sandwiches. Get them organized like Anthony Bourdain used to: a heaping pile of ham, salami, pepperoni, provolone, tomatoes, onions, shredded lettuce and scorching peppers, drenched in oil and vinegar.

Now, dinner can go in two instructions. You would style a full pizza tour, sampling all of the types of New Jersey within the Asbury sq. mile. Begin at Maruca’s on the boardwalk for a slice of “Tomato Pie” a Jersey unique the place the sauce swirls like a spiral out from the middle, mingling with the cheese fairly than being buried by it. Then Talula’s hawks among the finest Neapolitan pizzas in New Jersey or New York, sourcing all their components from native farms recognized on a blackboard above the bar. Or head to Killer Pies for a conventional slice and a customized, traditional fountain soda.

For extra of a sit-down dinner, head to Heirloom at St. Laurent (the place a $75 prix-fixe meal with a signature duck dish often is the most interesting eating on the town), Pascal & Sabine for French-inspired fare, or Barrio Costero for elevated Mexican cooking and among the finest shrimp tacos on the shore. The boardwalk is house to Langosta Lounge and its well-known Surf Curry, with recent seafood floating in a home mix of yellow and inexperienced curry. Newcomer R Bar gives traditional Large Straightforward dishes like gumbo, but additionally Jersey-inspired spins like a fried pork roll sandwich that may be a homage to the well-known fried bologna sandwich at Turkey and the Wolf in New Orleans. And for the reason that fish are swimming so shut by, there’s loads of seafood at the Bonney Read.

For those who saved room for dessert, head to Confections of a Rockstar and order cupcakes and different treats like a Macaroon 5, S’greater than a Feeling or a Oreo Speedwagon (I may preserve going however I’ll avoid wasting surprises for the go to).

In contrast to many Jersey Shore cities, Asbury Park boasts a number of massive resorts with full facilities and a spread of costs. To expertise the brand new, fashionable essence of Asbury, keep at the Asbury, a lodge customary out of the historic Salvation Military constructing that usually has reside music within the foyer, a rooftop bar and a pool out again (weekdays begin at $395, weekends $660). Simply throughout Bradley Park is the Berkeley Oceanfront Hotel, a long-running lodge that has been reworked and upgraded (weekdays begin at $295, weekends $459). On the different finish of the seashore is the Empress hotel (weekdays $229, weekends $339), a preferred spot for L.G.B.T.Q. guests, with views of the ocean.

For these in search of luxurious, the brand new Asbury Ocean Club (weekdays begin at $585, weekends $905), housed in a shimmering glass tower on the heart of the seashore expanse, is like stepping out of Asbury and right into a Hamptons or South Seashore scene. The foyer, bar and pool is all on the second flooring of the lodge, with the one avenue publicity a small vestibule with elevators. And the St. Laurent ($425 to $600 most nights), newly opened this summer season within the historic Lodge Tides constructing, counts 20 individually styled rooms — every is adorned with a customized surfboard by a local artist and comes with complimentary seashore passes — above an expansive restaurant, whiskey bar and yard pool.


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