Good morning. I as soon as had a improbable wood-fired seafood pizza on the Seaside Café in Key West, Fla.: candy and salty, luxurious with lobster meat, cream sauce, fontina and puréed garlic. The meat was plush, pillowy, completely cooked, and I questioned about that. If I put knuckles of cooked lobster on a pizza in a 1,000-degree wooden oven, they’d flip into rubber chew toys.
After I inhaled my pie, I requested the restaurant’s chef, Rafe Halpern, how he pulled it off. He chuckled earlier than answering in a form of bemused whisper. “Mayonnaise,” he mentioned. Rolling the items within the emulsion offers a fatty safety from the extraordinary warmth of the oven, permitting them to brown with out drying out. I believed that was genius.
Ali Slagle makes use of an analogous method for her grilled shrimp with chile and garlic (above), coating them in baking soda and mayonnaise to realize a fabulous crust with out overcooking. (J. Kenji López-Alt makes use of mayo as a secret ingredient when he’s cooking chicken and other meats.) Let’s attempt that on Saturday evening?
With maybe a blackberry crisp for dessert, served with a cardamom custard sauce?
I’d love a Denver omelet for breakfast on Sunday, a diner traditional with onions, bell peppers, ham and cheese. (I’d thought it a Colorado concoction, however some say it honors the 1869 arrival of the transcontinental practice line in Denver Metropolis, Utah.)
After which a giant Sunday supper, beginning with a creamy collard greens dip spiced with shito, a robust spicy-sweet pepper sauce from Ghana. To observe: jerk chicken with pickled bananas. (Don’t have a grill? Sheet-pan jerk salmon as an alternative!)
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Now, it’s nothing to do with barley or whelks, however when it’s a Skip Hollandsworth byline above a protracted article in Texas Month-to-month, you’ve got to read it. True crime.
