The bulging orange-streaked rind suggests Époisses from France, however Cossanella, newly imported by Murray’s Cheese Store, is extra delicate. It’s a product of the Alta Langa within the Piedmont area of Italy, an space recognized for top-flight wines and cheeses like La Tur and Robiola. Cossanella’s rind is washed with annatto — a condiment used for coloring created from the seeds of the achiote tree — offering its rusty hue. The ivory inside has delicate hints of mushroom and verbena, with a satin sheen and the consistency of sentimental serve. It’s a tasty accomplice for one of many Alta Langa’s spumantes.
Cossanella, $39 a pound (6-ounce cheese), Murray’s Cheese Store, murrayscheese.com.